Sprinkler Valve Installation, Maintenance & Repair
Types of sprinkler valves
One of the most common irrigation repair requests we receive is for broken or leaking irrigation valves, mainly anti-siphon valves. Two major types of sprinkler valves are used in residential and commercial landscapes: electric anti-siphon valves, in-line valves, and manual anti-siphon valves. Below, we will explain the key differences between the three, common issues you may encounter, and the resolution.
Anti-siphon valve (electric)
Model: Hunter PGV-101-ASV
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In-line valve (electric)
Model: Hunter PGV-101-G
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Anti-siphon valve (manual)
Model: Irritrol 2709PR
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Anti-siphon irrigation valves
The first and most common type of irrigation valve is the anti-siphon valve. This is the most common sprinkler valve for residential properties, but can also be found on commercial properties. Anti-siphon valves are typically found near the main water shut-off. This is usually located in the front yard of residential properties (such as seen in the image on the right) but may be located in the backyard of some older homes in the Sacramento area.
As the name suggests, this valve is equipped with an anti-siphon device. In other words, they prevent potentially contaminated water in your irrigation line from mixing into your potable water supply. For these valves to function properly, they must be installed at least 6 inches above ground level (or your highest sprinkler head). This is unlike in-line valves that are typically below ground in an irrigation control valve (ICV) box, but more will be explained on this type of valve later in this article. The 6-inch minimum height is required because the valves require a pressure difference to prevent water downstream of your line from making its way back upstream. In some cases, particularly with older homes, these valves may have been installed lower than 6 inches. While the valves might still be operational, this is not up to code, and your potable water supply is at a higher risk of contamination. If this is the case, please contact us to correct your system, and protect your potable water supply.
As the name suggests, this valve is equipped with an anti-siphon device. In other words, they prevent potentially contaminated water in your irrigation line from mixing into your potable water supply. For these valves to function properly, they must be installed at least 6 inches above ground level (or your highest sprinkler head). This is unlike in-line valves that are typically below ground in an irrigation control valve (ICV) box, but more will be explained on this type of valve later in this article. The 6-inch minimum height is required because the valves require a pressure difference to prevent water downstream of your line from making its way back upstream. In some cases, particularly with older homes, these valves may have been installed lower than 6 inches. While the valves might still be operational, this is not up to code, and your potable water supply is at a higher risk of contamination. If this is the case, please contact us to correct your system, and protect your potable water supply.
Electric (automatic) anti-siphon valves
Model: Irritrol 2711DPR
Anti-siphon valves can either be electric or manual. Electric valves are a little more complex than manual valves. On the inlet side of these valves, above the diaphragm, are a solenoid, flow control lever, and also a bleed screw. The solenoid serves as an automatic on/off switch for the valve. The valve is activated when a signal is sent from your irrigation controller/timer to the solenoid. This means that although automatic anti-siphon valves are very convenient, they also rely on a functional controller to work properly. The valve can also be activated by turning the solenoid counter-clockwise; typically a 1/4 turn is sufficient. The flow control lever simply adjusts the flow rate of the valve. This is useful in cases where the flow control lever is the only way of adjusting how much water your plants get, such as with a non-pressure compensated drip system. The bleed screw is a component that enables you the clean the diaphragm of your valve. Opening the bleed screw will also activate your valve. It is important to clean your valves occasionally to prevent debris in your potable water system from damaging the valves. Diaphragms are one most common broken valve components, and this could often be prevented with occasional flushing of the valve with the bleed screw.
Manual anti-siphon valves
Manual anti-siphon valves are very similar to their electric counterpart. However, unlike electric anti-siphon valves, manual valves require a user to manually open the flow control handle to activate the valve. This flow control handle acts very similar to a faucet handle because it simply allows you to regulate the water output. The flow control handle is the main component above the diaphragm of manual anti-siphon valves. All other components on the outlet side of these valves are similar to those of electric anti-siphon valves. Manual valves are often plastic or brass. Manual anti-siphon valves are also often used for pools.
In-line irrigation valves
Model: Rain Bird 100PEB
In-line valves are typically installed "in-line" of your irrigation system, usually horizontally along your irrigation pipes. For this reason, these valves typically need to be installed underground, in line with your irrigation pipes. To protect these valves, they are usually enclosed in an irrigation control valve (ICV) box. ICV boxes should be flush with your finish grade, especially if you have a lawn to avoid damage by lawn equipment. These boxes should never be below finish grade or in a low spot because water pooling in your valve box can damage your valves. Because in-line valves are protected by valve boxes, they are less likely to be damaged by weathering and foot traffic. This makes in-line valves ideal for locations such as commercial lawns and landscapes.
Because of their protection by the valve box, in-line valves tend to last significantly longer than above-ground anti-siphon valves. However, when they do require maintenance or repairs, it is usually more difficult due to the positioning of these valves below ground. Oftentimes, the valve boxes may need to be unearthed for repairs to be made. These systems are also more generally expensive and take longer to install than standard anti-siphon valves.
Because of their protection by the valve box, in-line valves tend to last significantly longer than above-ground anti-siphon valves. However, when they do require maintenance or repairs, it is usually more difficult due to the positioning of these valves below ground. Oftentimes, the valve boxes may need to be unearthed for repairs to be made. These systems are also more generally expensive and take longer to install than standard anti-siphon valves.
By design, in-line valves, are much simpler than anti-siphon valves. They typically contain the same major components of anti-siphon valves, such as the diaphragm, solenoid, bleed screw, and in some cases, a flow control. In-line valves do not have an anti-siphon vent. This is because the valves are not equipped with any back-flow prevention device. For this reason, irrigation systems with these valves must have a separate back-flow prevention device upstream of the valve, such as a pressure vacuum breaker, anti-siphon vacuum breaker, reduced pressure zone assembly back-flow preventer, or a simple check valve. If your sprinkler system does not have any back-flow prevention device upstream of the valve, your potable water supply is at risk of contamination. If this is the case, please contact us to discuss possible options for you.
Because of their protection by the valve box, in-line valves tend to last significantly longer than above-ground anti-siphon valves. However, when they do require maintenance or repairs, it is usually more difficult due to the positioning of these valves below ground. Oftentimes, the valve boxes may need to be unearthed for repairs to be made. These systems are also more generally expensive and take longer to install than standard anti-siphon valves.
Because of their protection by the valve box, in-line valves tend to last significantly longer than above-ground anti-siphon valves. However, when they do require maintenance or repairs, it is usually more difficult due to the positioning of these valves below ground. Oftentimes, the valve boxes may need to be unearthed for repairs to be made. These systems are also more generally expensive and take longer to install than standard anti-siphon valves.
By design, in-line valves, are much simpler than anti-siphon valves. They typically contain the same major components of anti-siphon valves, such as the diaphragm, solenoid, bleed screw, and in some cases, a flow control. In-line valves do not have an anti-siphon vent. This is because the valves are not equipped with any back-flow prevention device. For this reason, irrigation systems with these valves must have a separate back-flow prevention device upstream of the valve, such as a pressure vacuum breaker, anti-siphon vacuum breaker, reduced pressure zone assembly back-flow preventer, or a simple check valve. If your sprinkler system does not have any back-flow prevention device upstream of the valve, your potable water supply is at risk of contamination. If this is the case, please contact us to discuss possible options for you.
Sprinkler valve installation
Installing anti-siphon valves
Model: Rain Bird 100ASVF
Our top 3 choices for anti-siphon sprinkler valves are Hunter, Rain Bird, and Irritrol. When installed properly, these valves stand the test of time and can be operated easily. When we construct anti-siphon valves, we always ensure that the valves are installed at least 6 inches above the ground to ensure proper function and backflow prevention. We often give a few extra inches to allow for future repairs. This will allow the valves to be cut off at the male adapter and replaced with a new valve a couple of times without the need for a PVC coupling.
When we install sprinkler valves, we always use schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings to ensure that there is no PVC break throughout the life of the valves. We carefully weld our PVC joints with PVC primer and cement. This ensures that the joints aren't simply glued together, but rather fused. Therefore, there is greater assurance of no leaks or disconnects. This embodies our "Quality first, no shortcuts" motto.
When we install sprinkler valves, we always use schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings to ensure that there is no PVC break throughout the life of the valves. We carefully weld our PVC joints with PVC primer and cement. This ensures that the joints aren't simply glued together, but rather fused. Therefore, there is greater assurance of no leaks or disconnects. This embodies our "Quality first, no shortcuts" motto.
Installing in-line valves
Model: Rain Bird 100PEB
When we install in-line valves, we maintain the same general procedures as we do for anti-siphon valves. We ensure that our ICV boxes are set on a solid base and flush with the finish grade. We protect the box from root infiltration with geotextile fabric and install a layer of pea gravel on the base. We use 3M direct bury splice kits to wire our in-line valves with the irrigation controller; this ensures that the solenoid-to-sprinkler wire connections are fully protected. On commercial landscapes, we equip our valve boxes with locking mechanisms such as Rain Bird valve box lock hex bolts in order to prevent tampering. When given a landscape design plan, we carefully follow every detail. We always communicate closely with the landscape designer and the client to ensure all parties are on the same page.
Installing valves for drip irrigation systems
Model: Irritrol 2711DPR
When installing irrigation valves for drip irrigation systems, we always equip the outlet end of our valves with a pressure-regulating filter. Adding a pressure-regulating filter mitigates issues caused by excessive pressure, such as broken or disconnected emitters or tubing. The filter also mitigates debris from clogging emitters by capturing them before they make their way downstream into the irrigation line. This small step will greatly extend the life and performance of your drip system.
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New brass shutoff valves installed in copper line for main water shutoff and irrigation shutoff.
In the above slideshow, you will see the progression of our anti-siphon valve installation process. This house did not have any existing irrigation line or an irrigation isolation (shutoff) valve, so that was the first thing that we needed to install.
For this project, we removed the old water main shutoff gate valve and replaced it with a brand-new brass ball valve. In most potable water and irrigation applications above ground, ball valves are superior to gate valves because they offer more control of water flow and pressure and are less susceptible to corrosion or ceasing. We then installed a tee, and branched out with another brass ball valve, with an elbow facing down. This branched-off section will be for our irrigation line. As mentioned above, an isolation valve is critical for irrigation systems because it enables you to perform repairs or maintenance downstream of the valve without having to shut off water to the entire house. This process required soldering copper pipe to install the new ball valves and copper line. Soldering copper pipe can be extremely dangerous, and should only be performed by a trained professional. Please contact us to help you.
For this project, we removed the old water main shutoff gate valve and replaced it with a brand-new brass ball valve. In most potable water and irrigation applications above ground, ball valves are superior to gate valves because they offer more control of water flow and pressure and are less susceptible to corrosion or ceasing. We then installed a tee, and branched out with another brass ball valve, with an elbow facing down. This branched-off section will be for our irrigation line. As mentioned above, an isolation valve is critical for irrigation systems because it enables you to perform repairs or maintenance downstream of the valve without having to shut off water to the entire house. This process required soldering copper pipe to install the new ball valves and copper line. Soldering copper pipe can be extremely dangerous, and should only be performed by a trained professional. Please contact us to help you.
Model: Hunter PGV-101-ASV, NDS PRYF 40 pressure-regulating filters
After finishing up with the copper soldering, it was time to install the anti-siphon sprinkler valves. First, we installed a PVC male adapter below the copper female adapter and elbow. Then we installed a pipe coming down from the male adapter to feed water to our sprinkler valves. We always use PTFE/Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant on all threaded fittings. All of the fittings we use from this point onward are PVC.
To install our valves, we had to overcome two obstacles: the deck boards and the concrete walkway. We started by removing 4 deck boards to make sufficient room to install the 3 anti-siphon valves and pipes from the valves to the landscape. In this scenario, the first two valves are spare in case the client desires to add another sprinkler or drip system in the future. The two valves on the right side are equipped with a pressure-regulating filter. As mentioned above, pressure-regulating filters are essential for drip irrigation systems. All PVC joints were carefully welded together with PVC primer and cement. At every step, we ensure our pipe and fittings are clean before welding, and use sufficient solvent to create a lasting bond.
After installing the valves, we installed the pipes going from the valves to the landscape. This required running the pipes underneath the concrete walkway. To do this, we dug a trench on both sides of the concrete and used a method called hydro-jetting to push the pipes through the soil underneath the concrete walkway. This can be a very tedious task and must be done carefully to avoid injuries and damage to your property. We recommend you contact us for this work. We also ran a grey PVC conduit underneath the concrete for the sprinkler wire. While most sprinkler wires are rated for direct burial, a conduit grants another layer of protection and makes getting the wire underneath the concrete much easier.
To install our valves, we had to overcome two obstacles: the deck boards and the concrete walkway. We started by removing 4 deck boards to make sufficient room to install the 3 anti-siphon valves and pipes from the valves to the landscape. In this scenario, the first two valves are spare in case the client desires to add another sprinkler or drip system in the future. The two valves on the right side are equipped with a pressure-regulating filter. As mentioned above, pressure-regulating filters are essential for drip irrigation systems. All PVC joints were carefully welded together with PVC primer and cement. At every step, we ensure our pipe and fittings are clean before welding, and use sufficient solvent to create a lasting bond.
After installing the valves, we installed the pipes going from the valves to the landscape. This required running the pipes underneath the concrete walkway. To do this, we dug a trench on both sides of the concrete and used a method called hydro-jetting to push the pipes through the soil underneath the concrete walkway. This can be a very tedious task and must be done carefully to avoid injuries and damage to your property. We recommend you contact us for this work. We also ran a grey PVC conduit underneath the concrete for the sprinkler wire. While most sprinkler wires are rated for direct burial, a conduit grants another layer of protection and makes getting the wire underneath the concrete much easier.
Model: Hunter PGV-101-ASV
After all the pipe work was completed, we wired the sprinkler valves to the irrigation controller using waterproof wire connectors (we like to use 3M Direct Burt Splice Kits, especially for in-line valves, but basic waterproof wire connectors such as DryConn are fine too). Once all of the valves were wired to the irrigation controller/timer, all zones were tested to ensure proper communication between the controller and the valves.
Upon confirming that all zones were fully operational, we backfilled the trenches, leveled the soil, and re-compacted the soil. Then it was time to reinstall the deck boards. Because the former boards were not salvageable after removal, we installed new deck boards. We also made our best effort to match the paint of the previous deck boards. Of course, the original paint is weathered, hence the visible color difference. We always make our best effort to ensure that our clients are 100% percent satisfied with the result.
Upon confirming that all zones were fully operational, we backfilled the trenches, leveled the soil, and re-compacted the soil. Then it was time to reinstall the deck boards. Because the former boards were not salvageable after removal, we installed new deck boards. We also made our best effort to match the paint of the previous deck boards. Of course, the original paint is weathered, hence the visible color difference. We always make our best effort to ensure that our clients are 100% percent satisfied with the result.
Troubleshooting your sprinkler valves
Model: Hunter PGV-101-ASV
If your irrigation system is not functioning properly, there are several plausible reasons. Here, we will walk you through how to troubleshoot your irrigation system and determine the cause of the malfunction. The very first thing you should do is ensure that your irrigation isolation valve is not shut off. These are typically brass gate valves or ball valves found near your main water shut-off valve. In some older irrigation systems, there may not be a separate isolation valve for your irrigation system. If so, please contact us to ensure your home has a separate irrigation isolation valve. This is critical to ensure that maintenance and repairs can be performed on your irrigation system without restricting water to your home.
Activating your anti-siphon valves manually
Model: Hunter PGV-101-ASV
If both your irrigation isolation valve and main water shut-off valves are turned on, the next thing to check is that your anti-siphon valves function properly when turned manually. Typically, anti-siphon valves have a solenoid (a black cylindrical device with two wires on top of them). You can turn these solenoids counterclockwise to manually activate the anti-siphon valve. Most valves also have a bleed screw that can be opened by turning them counterclockwise. In both cases, you may see some water spurt out. This is normal, especially when done from the bleed screw as this cleans your valve diaphragm. Be careful not to overturn either the solenoid or the bleed screw as they may be difficult to put back on. Should this happen, turn off your irrigation isolation valve (or main water shut off if there are no irrigation isolation valves), then carefully thread either the solenoid or bleed screw back where it belongs. Ensure that you thread in both components correctly. You should feel minimal resistance. Threading either incorrectly could damage threads on the solenoid, the bleed screw, or even your valve. If you have a manual irrigation valve without a solenoid or bleed screw, use the on/off handle (typically black) to open your valve. If you would like to convert your manual anti-siphon valve(s) to automatic anti-siphon valve(s). please contact us.
Check your irrigation controller/timer & solenoids
If your sprinkler system begins to function after manually turning on your valve, then good news: you’ve ruled out a turned-off isolation valve or a jammed anti-siphon valve. The next step is to check that your irrigation controller is working properly and that your valves are wired correctly. Run a manual cycle from your irrigation controller to test your system. You may need to try multiple zones until you run the correct one. When your valves are activated from the irrigation controller, it is normal to hear a faint humming/buzzing sound from the valve solenoid. Typically, there will also be a small vibration from the solenoid as water moves through the valve. If the irrigation controller is not communicating with any of the valves, then you may have a broken irrigation controller. Oftentimes, this requires a complete replacement of the controller. This is especially the case if: 1) your irrigation controller glitches when you use the switches or buttons, 2) your controller has a delayed response, or 3) your controller’s screen is frozen. If you do not feel comfortable replacing your irrigation controller, please contact us. We can determine which irrigation controller will be most suitable for your budget and needs. We install standard irrigation controllers, smart controllers with smartphone and Bluetooth/WiFi compatibility, and even battery-operated controllers for areas with no electrical outlets.
Typically, irrigation controllers will indicate when the controller is running, such as by displaying a flashing spray can icon or a water droplet. If your controller appears to be working, but the valves are not activating, then you may have an issue with your wiring or the solenoids themselves. In this case, we recommend contacting us to ensure your system is wired correctly and that your solenoids are functional.
Typically, irrigation controllers will indicate when the controller is running, such as by displaying a flashing spray can icon or a water droplet. If your controller appears to be working, but the valves are not activating, then you may have an issue with your wiring or the solenoids themselves. In this case, we recommend contacting us to ensure your system is wired correctly and that your solenoids are functional.
Leaking valves
There could be many reasons for a leaking anti-siphon valve. To determine where your valve may be leaking from, it is helpful to understand the different components of a valve (see the above image). It is normal for water to spurt out of the vent cap after your system has finished running, especially if you are irrigating a higher elevation, such as a retaining wall. However, there should not be a consistent outpouring of water. If your valve is leaking from the sides, the rubber gasket seals may be worn out and will need to be replaced. Valves may also leak from the inlet or outlet connection, oftentimes connected to a PVC male adapter. If your valve leaks on either end, more pipe joint work is necessary. Please contact us if this is beyond your scope.
Valve stuck open?
If your anti-siphon irrigation valve is stuck open, the first thing you want to check is that your solenoid and bleed screws are completely closed and that they are threaded correctly. If threaded incorrectly, your valve might remain open. Ensure that both components sit upright, and can be gently tapped without water gushing out. If your solenoid and bleed screw are in place, the most probable cause for a leak is a broken solenoid or diaphragm. Either of these components can cause your valve to remain open if broken. In most cases, replacing a diaphragm will require opening the diaphragm cover. This can be done with a screwdriver for common Hunter, Rain Bird, and Orbit valves. Some other anti-siphon valves have a threaded ring cover that can be opened by simply twisting the ring counterclockwise. This is the case with valves such as Irritrol/Lawn Genie. Anti-siphon valves have several other components that are not shown in the diagrams above. If you do not feel comfortable with the repair, we recommend you contact us.
Backflow preventers
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As mentioned above, backflow preventers are essential in sprinkler systems that utilize in-line valves because these valves are not equipped with a built-in backflow prevention device. While backflow preventers vary widely in type and cost, a basic unit can help ensure your potable water supply is safe from potential contaminants that make their way down your irrigation line.
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